messene
Amidst the picturesque hills and valleys of the Southern Peloponnese, Greece, at the foot of Mt. Ithomi, lies the archaeological site of Ancient Messene, a once-flourishing city-state that played a significant role in the region’s ancient history.
The first installation on the site dates to the Late Neolithic or the Early Bronze Age. In the 9th to 8th century BCE, the cult of Zeus Ithomatas was established on the peak of Mt. Ithomi. A heroon shrine was founded in the lower city during the Geometric period (800–700 BCE), along with the first sanctuaries of Artemis Orthia, Asklepios, and Messene. All these sacred buildings belonged to a town named Ithome. The Spartan annexation of the area following the First Messenian War (743–724 BCE) put a stop to the evolution of the town. The Spartan occupation, however, did not result in a total loss of national consciousness among the inhabitants, who were reduced to helots.
The independent city of Ancient Messene was founded in 369 BCE by the Theban general Epaminondas following the Battle of Leuctra in 371 BCE, which resulted in a Spartan defeat and the establishment of Theban hegemony. It became the capital of the free Messenian state following a long period of about four centuries of occupation by the Spartans. To enhance their defenses, the Messenians built strong fortifications, including imposing 9-kilometer-long walls with massive towers.
A City of Grand Buildings and Magnificent Structures
Within its sturdy walls, Messene boasted an array of grand buildings and magnificent structures, reflecting the city’s newfound prosperity. The Agora, or marketplace, served as the city’s economic and social hub, while the theater, with a capacity of over 15,000 spectators, hosted a variety of performances and public events. The sanctuary of Asclepius, the god of healing, attracted pilgrims from across the region who were seeking solace and treatment. We also find the other typical components of a flourishing polis: a stadium, a gymnasium, various temples, and a hall for political meetings. The city’s residents were highly educated, and the arts flourished, with poets, sculptors, and architects contributing to Messene’s rich cultural tapestry.
Following an earthquake in 365 CE and an invasion by the Visigoths around 395 CE, the city fell into ruin, where it was picked apart by local inhabitants in search of building materials. However, from the beginning of the 5th century CE, Messene was reconstructed as a Christian city and became the seat of a local bishop. Yet, neither during the Byzantine period nor under Ottoman rule did the place ever regain its former importance. When a French expedition in search of forgotten classical Greek sites rediscovered the ruins of Messene, the location was almost entirely deserted—the land was being used for farming, olive growing, and grazing by the inhabitants of the nearby village of Mavromati.