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monemvasia

From the many traces of classical Greek stonework on the nearby mainland we can conclude that the island of Monemvasia was probably inhabited long before the Byzantine period.

But an earthquake destroyed everything on the island in the fifth century CE and no structures can be found from earlier times.  According to The Chronicle of Monemvasia (a medieval text of unknown origin that describes the Avaro-Slavic conquest and colonization of mainland Greece, covering a period from 587 to 805 CE) the town was founded in the 6th century CE. Most of the archaeological evidence today bears witness to Monemvasia’s heyday from the 11th to the 14th century, as well as during the 17th and 18th century.

Monemvasia is divided into a lower and an upper town. The lower town is still inhabited today and  a prime example of the elegance of Byzantine-Venetian architecture. It conveys the impression of an inhabited museum. A couple of hundred people live there without motorized traffic, but with strict rules to preserve the aesthetic and romantic flair of the place.

The Island seen from Gefyra
The Island seen from the south
The Island seen from the south...
The City Gate
Two cats at dusk in the lower city
Full moon rising above the city
Well kept houses in the lower city
Well kept houses in the lower city
Well kept houses in the lower city
Looking up from the lower city to the upper one
Marketplace of the lower city
Marktetplace of the lower city
The main church in the lower city
Local transport of goods
Full Moon Rising
The harbor of Gefyra at dawn

the upper city

The ruins on top of the mountain remind us of the city’s changing fortunes over the centuries.

The medieval Church of Hodegetria, restored in the 1950s

Besides the church the upper city is in ruins

Ruins in the upper city

A Turkish mausoleum

Looking from the top of the hill towards Gefyra and the mainland

View from the upper city

Looking down to the lower city, which is still inhabited

East front of the church

After the breakup of the Byzantine empire the castle was governed at intervals by the Venetians (1460-1540 and 1690-1715) and the Ottomans (1540-1690 and 1715-1821). Trade flourished and there was considerable building activity in the lower city as well as in the upper city with the castle on top of the hill. Monemvasia continued to be one of the wealthiest cities in the territory after 1715. The caretaker of the museum told me that whoever conquered the place made sure it wasn’t destroyed, because the town was strategically important for war and for trade. Thus the citizens were spared and the medieval structure of the lower city survived until today.

During the Orloff revolt (1770) in the Russo-Turkish War, many Monemvasians were captured or killed, the city was looted, and lost its glory. But with the tourist industry booming, Monemvasia is now experiencing a revival and a great attraction for guests from all over the world.

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