the north: rif mountains & mediterranean and atlantic coast & chefchaouen
part of the series “mahendra’s morocco“
© mahendra myshkin 2025
the rif mountains
Northern Morocco is dominated by the Rif Mountains, a region historically known for both resistance to central government and for cannabis cultivation. Cannabis (locally known as kif) has been grown here since at least the 15th century and remains a central part of the local economy, much of which is processed into hashish for export to Europe. Despite periodic attempts at prohibition, cultivation has persisted and even expanded, making Morocco the world’s largest producer of cannabis.
The Rif is also home to striking landscapes and historic towns such as Tetouan and Chefchaouen, with its blue-washed medina. Tourism and rural crafts have been promoted as alternative sources of income, but the dominance of the cannabis trade continues to shape both the economy and reputation of the region. While passing several mountain resorts and staying in Chefchaouen dozens of people offered me the local cannabis; but I politely declined. One farmer outside of Chefchaouen responded by offering some of his freshly harvested peas, which I in turn fed to his donkeys, whom he had called Trump and Biden. So instead of smoking a joint I ended up feeding the last two American presidents.
al hoceima and the mediterranean coast
Northern Morocco also offers plenty of relaxed Mediterranean beaches. Al Hoceima is a popular coastal destination and widely regarded as the cleanest city in Morocco.
Nearby, to the east, lie expansive beaches along with three small islets situated just offshore that remain under Spanish sovereignty: the Islas Alhucemas. I discovered one of them within swimming distance—the Peñón de Alhucemas—while visiting Plage Sfiha. When I spotted the Spanish flag flying over the buildings on the island, I wondered if someone was playing a joke. In reality, the fortress was ceded to the Spanish Crown by the Moroccan Saadi Sultanate in 1559 and has never been returned to Morocco.
Continuing further east, the terrain opens into a sparsely populated coastal landscape marked by dramatic sedimentary rock formations and some of the least frequented stretches of shore on the Mediterranean.
cap spartel
Approximately 14 kilometers west of Tangier is Cap Spartel, commonly known as the northwestern tip of Africa. Here, the Cape Spartel Lighthouse towers over the rocky coast where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. As one of the most prominent lighthouses on the continent, it guards the southern entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar from the Atlantic side. Surrounding the promontory is a lush landscape that makes the area one of the greenest in Morocco.
asilah
is a port town on the Atlantic coast. It is a popular tourist destination with a very laid-back atmosphere, a small harbour, many artists and galleries, and a few nice beaches. The area began as a Phoenician settlement around 1500 BCE and was later used by the Romans, before a proper city was constructed by the Idrisid dynasty around 1000 CE. The Portuguese ruled there for a time; later, it became a pirate harbour under Moroccan rule and a part of Spanish Morocco before integrating into modern-day Morocco. The ancient oriental flair has survived in the Medina with its narrow roads and traditional bazaars.
