the north: rif mountains & mediterranean coast & chefchaouen & asilah

part of the series “mahendra’s morocco“

© mahendra myshkin 2025

Northern Morocco is dominated by the Rif Mountains, a region historically known for both resistance to central government and for cannabis cultivation. Cannabis (locally known as kif) has been grown here since at least the 15th century and remains a central part of the local economy, much of which is processed into hashish for export to Europe. Despite periodic attempts at prohibition, cultivation has persisted and even expanded, making Morocco the world’s largest producer of cannabis.

The Rif is also home to striking landscapes and historic towns such as Tetouan and Chefchaouen, with its blue-washed medina. Tourism and rural crafts have been promoted as alternative sources of income, but the dominance of the cannabis trade continues to shape both the economy and reputation of the region. While passing several mountain resorts and staying in Chefchaouen dozens of people offered me the local cannabis; but I politely declined. One farmer outside of Chefchaouen responded by offering some of his freshly harvested peas, which I in turn fed to his donkeys, whom he had called Trump and Biden. So instead of smoking a joint I ended up feeding the last two American presidents.

Northern Morocco also offers some relaxed Mediterranean beaches. Al Hoceima is a popular tourist spot and probably the cleanest city of Morocco. To the east, however, you’ll find a sparcely populated coastal landscape with some stunning rock formations.